Central Europe

It's time to visit Central Europe, partly because of the current world situation and partly because a new ETIAS will take effect in 2025, causing additional effort and costs.

Jul 26, 2024
Berlin

My flight to Berlin was 5 hours late, partly due to the disruption at Frankfurt Airport caused by environmental activists, so I missed my visit to the Neues Museum (pre-booked online) and went directly to the East Side Gallery after dinner. It was a pleasure seeing the 1.3 km long free gallery at night. However, the experience of seeing the Berlin Wall Memorial afterward was not as good, as it was so dark at night.

The most famous mural at East Side Gallery

Jul 27, 2024
Berlin - Warsaw

Since almost nothing could be seen last night at the Berlin Wall Memorial, I decided to have a quick look at a piece of the Berlin Wall at the Berlin Wall Memorial in the morning, and it was rewarding. The next couple of sights I checked out were almost always related to history, including Checkpoint Charlie, the Memorial to Homosexuals Persecuted Under Nazism, the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, the Brandenburg Gate, and the Reichstag (German parliament) building (free but advance reservation is required). By late evening, I was already in Warsaw.

The Reichstag Dome

Jul 28, 2024
Warsaw - Kraków

Warsaw is the capital of Poland but not a major tourist destination. While in the city, it's worth walking around Old Town Square and Castle Square to learn some (often sad) history. In the early afternoon, I enjoyed the free Chopin Concert at Łazienki Park (only available on summer Sunday afternoons).

A high-speed train took me to Kraków in less than 3 hours (delayed by 20 minutes). I managed to see "Lady with an Ermine" (by Leonardo da Vinci) at the Czartoryski Museum (closed on Mondays) before taking the train to join the last tour of the Wieliczka Salt Mine at 6:30 pm. Although expensive (32 EUR), I found the experience interesting, especially eating Polish food at the cafeteria 125 meters underground after the tour.

Chopin Concert at Łazienki Park

Jul 29, 2024
Kraków - Zakopane

Kraków is definitely the No. 1 tourist destination in Poland, and people seem to speak perfect (and sometimes fast) English. While Wawel Cathedral (on Wawel Hill) is considered the national church of Poland and was favored by the royals, St. Mary's Basilica (at the Main Market Square) is more for common people. The latter is much cheaper and offers an interesting experience to see the opening of the altar at 11:50 am. Another church worth seeing is the Franciscan Church (also at the Main Market Square, free entry) for its Art Nouveau stained-glass windows, including the striking 'God the Father.'

Although there are frequent buses from Kraków to Zakopane, there are also a couple of trains a day between the two cities—the latter is slightly slower but more comfortable. The train station and long-distance bus station in Zakopane are in the same area. There is also a short-distance bus station with minibuses going to areas around Zakopane; one useful route goes to Kuźnice (for the Kasprowy Wierch cable car) for 4 PLN. Kasprowy Wierch is a famous mountain peak in the Tatra Mountains that separates Poland from Slovakia, and yes, I did have a photo taken with one leg in Poland and the other in Slovakia.

Another popular sight near Zakopane is Morskie Oko, a picturesque mountain lake. It takes a long time to go there and back, and since I've seen many mountain lakes in British Columbia, I didn't make it to Morskie Oko. Instead, I took the funicular to Gubałówka, which offers nice mountain views (though not as grand as Kasprowy Wierch).

Jul 30, 2024
Slovak Paradise National Park

It's time to take a break from big cities and enjoy some nature. Traveling from southern Poland to Hungary requires passing through eastern Slovakia, a less populated and mostly rural area. One highlight is Slovak Paradise National Park—the area is huge, and most people visiting the park drive. However, it's also possible to use public transport (buses and trains) to see the southern part of the park, including the UNESCO-listed Dobšinská Ice Cave (inside temperature: -3.9 to -0.2 °C). Another short (less than 1 hour one-way) but very unique hike is Zejmarská dolina, which features many ladder climbs similar to other longer trails in Slovak Paradise National Park. It's near the resort village of Dedinky (the name literally translates to 'village').

Zejmarská dolina

Jul 31, 2024
Spiš Castle - Košice

Spiš Castle is another UNESCO World Heritage site in eastern Slovakia. Part of the site is currently under renovation, so the price has been reduced to 10 EUR. It's about 5 minutes by car or just under an hour on foot uphill from the nearby town of Spišské Podhradie. The tourist office (open daily, with a lunch break from 12 noon to 1 pm) can store luggage for 0.5 EUR, which is perfect for people visiting Spiš Castle "on the way." It can also help arrange a taxi to the castle (5 EUR), which is handy since taxis are difficult to find on the streets of this small town. I took the taxi to the castle and walked back to the town. The best view of the castle can be found about halfway between the castle and the town.

A short bus and train journey took me to Košice, the second-largest city in Slovakia. Highlights of the city are all near the train station, so it's easy to take a walk after storing your luggage at the train station (3 EUR per piece). There are some classical buildings around, including the impressive St. Elisabeth's Cathedral (the largest church in Slovakia). The Singing Fountain is interesting as well.

Arriving in Budapest by train (with no dining car on board) in the early evening, I decided to take the metro to Batthyány tér station to capture the famous night photo of the Hungarian Parliament Building—it’s superb.

Spiš Castle

Aug 1, 2024
Budapest

A full day reserved for Budapest turned out to be quite relaxing. After seeing the mummified right hand of St. Stephen (first Christian king of Hungary) at St. Stephen's Basilica, I joined the RiverRide tour to experience my first (and perhaps last) "splash" from the amphibious bus. I admit it’s probably a good idea to experience the floating bus (if you haven’t already tried it somewhere else), but other parts of the tour were rather so-so.

Walking across Chain Bridge (first bridge linking Buda to Pest over the Danube River) was pleasant. On the Buda side of the bridge, there is a funicular going up to Buda Hill, but it’s expensive and not covered by the 24-hour Budapest transport ticket. So, I took the bus to a stop close to Fisherman’s Bastion and started my journey up Buda Hill. Although you can buy a ticket to the upper level of Fisherman’s Bastion, the view from the "free" level is also good. The nearby Matthias Church looks grand too.

It’s just a one-bus-stop ride or a short walk from Fisherman’s Bastion to Buda Castle (Royal Palace), passing Carmelite Monastery (prime minister’s office) and Sándor Palace (presidential palace). There are some museums around, and the courtyard is nice (though I didn’t find it too special). It’s possible to walk all the way downhill from Buda Castle to the west side of Chain Bridge.

Budapest has two popular "sights" related to food and drinks. One is the 100+ year old Central Market Hall, where you can buy fresh produce and try Hungary’s national snack, lángos (the portion is large). The other is the so-called ruin bars, with the most famous one being Szimpla Kert (which opens at 3 pm).

Now comes the No. 1 tourist attraction in Budapest: Széchenyi Thermal Bath. Hungary is famous for its thermal baths, and there are several good ones in Budapest alone. For first-time tourists, Széchenyi Thermal Bath is always recommended for its classical architecture and the atmosphere. To my surprise, there were quite a number of locals there, and a nice gentleman even pointed out a "hidden" massage jet to me.

Central Europe is full of Art Nouveau architecture. One of the Hungarian Secession masterpieces is the former Postal Savings Bank building in Central Budapest. However, it’s difficult to see the roof (the highlight of the building) from the street. I managed to have dinner at Intermezzo Roof Terrace across the street. Though the food was so-so, I enjoyed amazing views of the former Postal Savings Bank building and a beautiful sunset.

Viewing the former Postal Savings Bank building from Intermezzo Roof Terrace

Aug 2, 2024
Bratislava - Vienna

On the way to Vienna, I stopped in Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia, for a couple of hours. Walking in the old town was quite pleasant. Apart from the famous St. Michael's Gate and several other classical buildings, some public sculptures are worth checking out (e.g., "Čumil" is probably a must-see). Two churches shouldn't be missed either: St. Martin's Cathedral (where 19 Hungarian kings and queens were crowned) and the Blue Church (noted for its Art Nouveau architecture).

To get panoramic views of Bratislava, I paid 9.9 EUR (price before 1 pm) to reach the viewing platform of the UFO Tower. On the way from the old town to the UFO Tower on the west side of the bridge over the Danube River, you can take an excellent photo of Bratislava Castle, the city’s landmark.

Although there are frequent trains from Bratislava to Vienna, a more interesting (but much more expensive) option is the Twin City Liner boat from Bratislava to Vienna (1.5 hours). This boat also provides an opportunity to see Devín Castle from the river (shortly after departing Bratislava).

Although more expensive, a "benefit" of traveling in the summer is that some activities can be enjoyed in the evenings. I arrived in Vienna shortly after 4 pm but managed to do four major activities for the rest of the day: admiring Klimt’s "The Kiss" at Belvedere Palace, checking out Hundertwasser House, walking around the historical center (including St. Stephen's Cathedral and Hofburg), and enjoying (partially) the free music film festival in front of the City Hall (available every night in the summer).

The Blue Church (Bratislava)

Aug 3, 2024
Vienna - Prague

For the second day in Vienna, I made 3 reservations in advance to save time: having the original Sacher-Torte (chocolate cake) at Café Sacher, joining a guided tour at Vienna State Opera, and taking a self-guided tour at Schönbrunn Palace. I found that following Google Maps to walk across gardens doesn’t always work in Vienna, as there are gates that can be closed. I ended up taking a long detour and missed the opportunity to eat at a restaurant (I ordered takeaway instead).

I booked the "Low Cost" class RegioJet train from Vienna to Prague, and it exceeded my expectations. Legroom was more than satisfactory, and booking food using their app went smoothly. The train was only a few minutes late reaching Prague.

Before sunset, I checked out two public artworks by David Černý: Franz Kafka - Rotating Head and Man Hanging Out - Statue of Sigmund Freud. Both are pretty cool.

Vienna State Opera

Aug 4, 2024
Prague

The last day of the trip was reserved for Prague, the most popular tourist destination in Central Europe. As expected, there were just SO MANY tourists, especially at the three major attractions: the Old Town, Prague Castle, and Charles Bridge in between. Even in the morning when Old Town Square was not too crowded, there were still many people in front of the Astronomical Clock for the hourly show. The flood of tourists on Charles Bridge can be a "sight" in itself. At Prague Castle, there is no free area to peek inside St. Vitus Cathedral anymore, and even with a ticket, the line to get inside the cathedral can be over one hundred meters long. The exterior of the cathedral (especially the south side) is splendid and free to view. Surprisingly, there were not many people in the first courtyard at noon as there was no changing of the guard (not sure if it was because it was Sunday). The classical music concert at 1 pm at Lobkowicz Palace was a good break. This private palace also has a restaurant with delicious but expensive traditional Czech dishes and great views of the city (similar views are available for free about 100 meters downhill).

South of Prague Castle, at a higher altitude, is Petřín Hill—it's a beautiful area with slightly fewer tourists. The funicular uphill is covered by the 24-hour Prague transport ticket. The viewing platform on top of Petřín Tower offers 360-degree views of Prague. The library at Strahov Monastery was interesting too. There were almost no queues at the ticket offices at both Petřín Tower and Strahov Monastery.

The last activity of the whole trip was a one-hour boat tour by Prague Boats. It was a bit messy—too many tourists on board and not enough seats. It was also raining at the time, and the outside area of the boat had no shields. However, the boat tour does offer a good view of Charles Bridge from the Vltava River. The rest of the tour was nothing special.

Theological Hall, Strahov Library

Overview

The big cities in Central Europe share many similarities: grand churches, old town squares, royal castles/palaces, etc. Berlin is particularly rich in history, and Vienna is rich in art and culture. These two German-speaking cities are also the most English-friendly. Prague is perhaps a little overrated, primarily due to the overwhelming number of tourists, while Budapest is underrated—the thermal baths experience is unique. Contrary to some public perceptions, the people I met in Poland were quite friendly and helpful. Slovakia may be the least-visited country in Central Europe but is my favorite, as it offers natural beauty, is less crowded, and is less expensive.