Port Alberni - Bamfield

This year's Canada Day happens to be a Friday, a rare opportunity to use the long weekend to have a car-free trip to experience the scenic Port Alberni to Bamfield boat as it typically runs on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday only.

Jul 1, 2022
Port Alberni

Tofino Bus has daily service from Nanaimo to Tofino, at least in the summer. It starts at Departure Bay in Nanaimo at 12:30 pm, stopping at Port Alberni at 2:00 pm on the way to Tofino. The bus stop in Port Alberni is in the Victoria Quay area, convenient to check out the river front and sculptures nearby.

There are not many things to see in the city but there are numerous hiking trails around Port Alberni. The trail system around Roger Creek is not too far from the city and good for people without a car (a taxi should cost less than $20 one-way). The most famous "site" is "Hole In The Wall" - trailhead is opposite Coombs Country Candy store. With proper shoes, it's possible to cross Roger Creek near "Hole In The Wall" to the other side of the creek into Roger Creek Nature Trail. Highlights on that trail include a giant tree called Roger Creek Giant and a picnic area named Beer Garden. From there it's connected to Beaver Pond Trail leading to the two ponds (I didn't see any beavers though). The ponds are close to West Coast General Hospital where a local bus stops on the way to the city.

Cross the creek here near Hole In The Wall to Roger Creek Nature Trail on the other side

Jul 2, 2022
Port Alberni to Bamfield

The famous Lady Rose Marine Services boat departs from Harbour Quay in Port Alberni at 8:00 am, sailing along Alberni Inlet and into Barkley Sound, before arriving at Bamfield about 4 hours later. On the way, it delivers goods to small remote villages. Contrary to some guidebooks, I found the Alberni Inlet section (especially the area around Kildonan) is more scenic than Barkley Sound. The boat stops at both Bamfield West and Bamfield East (the final destination).

A good hiking option around Bamfield is Keeha Trail, part of the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. Trailhead is about 2km from the center of Bamfield East (road taxi is available). The trail is not particularly difficult but is pretty muddy even in the summer. Rubber boots and/or poles are highly recommended. Keeha Beach itself is nice and very long. Some people camp on the beach.

Jul 3, 2022
Bamfield West

Bamfield has two parts: Bamfield West and Bamfield East - separated by Bamfield Inlet. Where Bamfield East is connected by road to the rest of Vancouver Island and has a better market, Bamfield West is more attractive to visitors. A water taxi is needed to travel between Bamfield East and Bamfield West (there are two companies, call them and they'll arrive shortly, one-way fare is $10 per person). Walking on the boardwalk along the coast of Bamfield West is very pleasant. There are almost no cars in Bamfield West and walking on its gravel road for about 1km you'll reach the beautiful Brady's Beach. Personally I liked sitting on a bench high on the rocks for a panoramic view of the ocean.

The West Coast Trail Bus leaves Bamfield East (in front of the market) at 1:15 pm (sometimes it's delayed) daily in the summer, arriving in Nanaimo (Departure Bay) at 5:15 pm (passengers are transferred to another vehicle at Honeymoon Bay in Lake Cowichan area) and Victoria at 7:45 pm. Most of the journey is on logging roads, perhaps one of the reasons why the bus tickets are extremely expensive (currently $110 to Victoria and $125 to Nanaimo one-way before tax).

Bench on the rocks at Brady's Beach

Overview

Bamfield is a lovely fishing village to check out but the main purpose going there is the scenic boat sailing from Alberni to Bamfield. Port Alberni is not touristy at all and is actually a good place to stay. Hiking in the trail system around Roger Creek is a good way to spend a couple of hours while in the city.