Dec 26, 2019
Valladolid
I started my journey from Valladolid, a good base to check out Chichén Itzá and explore the cenotes nearby.
My very first site around Valladolid was Cenote Suytun, the cenote very popular on social media. This cenote is best seen when there are not too many people. I went there around 9 am when it just opened. There were already a few tourists there but overall it was quite quiet. There were no prices listed at the ticket office and I was charged 120 pesos (not sure if it's a rip-off). The cenote itself is worth seeing as it poses a good opportunity for photos containing people that is unique from other cenotes.
When I arrived at Chichén Itzá, "the No. 1 Mayan ruins in Mexico", I saw a very long line at the ticket office. I figured it might take one or two hours just to get the ticket! When I was just hesitating, somebody said there was another line for cash tickets. That line was actually very short - less than 10 people and I bought my ticket in one minute (no indication for a cash only ticket line - just a sign saying "Pay your parking here"). I felt bad for the hundreds of people lining up at the "normal line". The price has increased to 481 pesos and there are just soooooo many tourists there. Climbing or getting into any buildings is not allowed.
Back to Valladolid, I rented a bike from the Mezcalería Don Trejo restaurant on Calzada de los Frailes to get to Cenote Oxman, perhaps the best cenote around Valladolid. Part of the road to get to Cenote Oxman is very bumpy, making it relatively less touristy. The cenote is indeed very nice. Even better, the entrance fee is only 80 pesos (or 150 pesos that includes 150 pesos credit to use the restaurant - a great value if you do want to eat at the restaurant as the cheapest food there is 80 pesos).
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| Cenote Oxman |
Dec 27, 2019
Tulum and Playa del Carmen
More popular with European tourists, Tulum is famous for its beach side cabins and the seaside Mayan ruins. The beach front is quite long and there is a significant distance between central Tulum and the beach and among the sites. Renting a bike is handy but can also be exhausting. I rented a bike and ended up biking for more than 20 km for Tulum Ruins, Gran Cenote and the south beaches as far as Raw Love Cafe. Gran Cenote is one of the famous cenotes around Tulum. The highlight here is that you can see turtles in the cenote.
One my way to Cancún, I stopped at Playa del Carmen briefly and checked out Parque los Fundadores and the nearby Portal Maya (a 15-meter high sculpted bronze arch). Danza de los Voladores is performed at Parque los Fundadores and there is also traditional dance at Portal Maya. One of the ADO bus stations is just a stone's throw from Parque los Fundadores.
Dec 28, 2019
Cancún and Isla Mujeres
There are many activities in Cancún. One "unique" thing is Cancún Underwater Museum (MUSA). As a non-swimmer, I booked the glass bottom boat tour from MUSA website (run by Aquaworld). Only a few small sculptures can be seen from the glass bottom boat but we did see some rays and turtles. The MUSA website says this tour lasts about 3 hours but my tour only lasted 2 hours. And the "refreshments" they provided on-board were only coke and water.
In terms of accommodations, there is over developed "hotel zone" (mostly for package tours). For independent travelers, central Cancún is the definite choice - not only it's where the ADO bus station (for destinations in the region as well as the airport) is located, it's also the "real" Mexico. There are some good local and reasonably priced restaurants around Parque de las Palapas. On weekend evenings, free music, dance, and talk shows can be found in the park and around. Frequent R-1 buses link central Cancún and the hotel zone.
Though it's possible to take a ferry from the hotel zone to Isla Mujeres, it's less frequent and more expensive. A "wiser" way is to take a ferry from Puerto Juarez in central Cancún (300 pesos return). Bus R-6 links Puerto Juarez with the ADO station (taxi drivers around Puerto Juarez tend to overcharge - some even ask for 200 pesos!).
The ferry from Puerto Juarez to Isla Mujeres takes only 18 minutes. It's a pleasant journey. The most popular way to do a round-the-island tour by yourself is renting a golf cart. On the west coast, there is a turtle farm. At the far end of the island, there is a nice walk to Punta Sur. On the east coast, the charming Guadalupe Chapel is worth a stop. Downtown Isla Mujeres offers numerous shops, restaurants and beaches. You can walk from the beaches on the east side (a good start point is the end of Avenida Matamoros), passing the small beach opposite Mia Reef Isla Mujeres, all the way to the famous Playa Norte.
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| Punta Sur, Isla Mujeres |
Overview
Cancún and the region is extremely touristy, especially during the holiday season. Plan for extra time for sites. Unique features of the region include various cenotes and the underground museum. Taxi drivers and street vendors tend to overcharge foreign tourists and bargaining is encouraged.
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