May 20, 2016
Falmouth
Montego Bay is one of the three major resort areas in Jamaica and also the major arrival point for international tourists. Immigration officer asked me about hotel booking – something I never encountered at immigration in other countries. Luckily, I had one night booking in the Blue Mountains. After I handed over the paper the officer appeared satisfied. I had no idea what would happen without pre-booked hotels.
There is a bus stop outside the airport (for Montego Bay and Falmouth). I waited for more than one hour but couldn’t find any buses coming. Nobody knows how often the bus comes. So I walked uphill to the main road to take a route taxi (frequent) to Falmouth (less than one hour).
There are some classical buildings in downtown Falmouth, including William Knibb Memorial Baptist Church, Baptist Manse and Falmouth Courthouse, but the main reason to come to Falmouth is the famous Glistening Waters, 2 km from downtown Falmouth. The phenomenon is amazing and only the guide could take meaningful photos (he charges 20-30 USD for the service).
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| Water Square, Falmouth |
May 21, 2016
Port Antonio
There is Knutsford Express bus service from Glistening Waters to Port Antonio (originating from Montego Bay) twice a day. Passengers change buses at Ocho Rios. The whole journey takes 4 hours. Port Antonio is a charming little town. There are several guesthouses on Titchfield Peninsula - the closed to the center of the town is De Montevin Lodge, a classical building built in 1881 where two British queens stayed.
Attractions near Port Antonio include Blue Lagoon and Winnifred Beach, both easily reachable by frequent route taxis. Some downhill walk (and uphill when returning) is needed to get to each site. Another famous activity is rafting the Rio Grande. Night rafting is also offered unofficially. People will approach you around the area of route taxis to Berridale – the starting point of the rafting. The whole journey takes about 3 hours and will stop at a restaurant en route.
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| Blue Lagoon |
May 22, 2016
Blue Mountains
There is no public transportation from Port Antonio to the Blue Mountains via the scenic B1 road. Taxis are available at Buff Bay for 5,000 – 7,000 Jamaican dollars. The budget accommodation option in the Blue Mountains is Mount Edge Guest House - its EITS Cafe is even more famous, attracting Kingston residents for lunch on weekends. It’s about 5 degrees cooler in the mountains and there are hiking and biking (challenging) trails available in the area.
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| Mount Edge Guest House |
May 23, 2016
Port Royal
Due to the security situation in Kingston, I decided to stay in Port Royal. Another good reason to stay here is that it’s closer to the airport and is the departing point for the lovely Lime Cay.
The only site in town is Fort Charles. Sadly they increased the entrance fee for foreigners to 10 USD, making it less attractive to me to get inside. Boats for Lime Cay depart from a pier near the Grand Port Royal Marina & Spa. Public boats are available (by tour companies) and the last boat returns from Lime Cay around 6 pm.
Lime Cay is an uninhabited island popular with locals on weekends and public holidays. There are no facilities on the island so taking water is important. It’s small and relaxing. Spending a couple of hours on the island is a must for any visit to Port Royal.
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| Lime Cay |
May 24, 2016
Nassau
Accommodations in the Bahamas are super expensive. So I decided to stay at an apartment through airbnb.com. For the same price, apartments are cleaner than hotels. They also offer airport pickup at similar prices to taxis.
Downtown Nassau is worth checking out. Many buildings are painted in pink and white. There are also several famous churches. The small Junkanoo Beach is quite local (thus interesting) and near Prince George Wharf where I saw some huge cruise ships. In fact, many tourists I met were from cruise ships.
Paradise Island, north of Nassau, is a total tourist territory, with luxury resorts, casinos, beaches and a shopping place called Marina Village. Several boat tours, including Power Boat Adventures and Dolphin Encounters, depart from Paradise Island Pier. There is also a pier on the island serving downtown Nassau (4 dollars one-way).
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| Government House, Nassau |
May 25, 2016
Blue Lagoon Island
I booked a tour with Power Boat Adventures to Exuma and actually waited in front of a hotel near my apartment in the morning as arranged. However, they canceled the tour “due to bad weather”. It was nice and sunny in Nassau. I checked the weather in Exuma and it was not bad either. The real reason for the “calculation” may be a mystery forever.
I then went to Paradise Island to take the tour to Blue Lagoon Island. They have several departures throughout the day. The tour is less interesting but cheaper. It’s more suitable for families with kids. There are activities to touch dolphins and sea lions (expensive) but watching is free. Walking around the island is relaxing and lunch is included in the price. Canoes and water bikes are available for rent. The last boat back to Paradise Island is 4pm (sometimes they add an additional one).
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| Blue Lagoon Island |
May 26, 2016
Harbour Island
The main reason to come to Harbour Island is the famous Pink Sand Beach, frequented by celebrities and the rich. There are several flights between Nassau and North Eleuthara (near Harbour Island). The flight only takes 30 minutes and costs slightly more than the boat. But going to/from the airports on each end adds more in cost and time. So the boat service offered by Bahamas Fast Ferries is not a bad choice. It takes 2 hours and 40 minutes and the ride is smooth.
It’s quite rewarding to have a walk around Dunmore Town on Harbour Island. Don’t miss the classical Loyalist Cottage and the lone tree (off Bay St). The Pink Sand Beach is not that “pink” in my opinion but it’s a nice, long beach without too many people. Lunch at Sip Sip overlooking the beach is really enjoyable.
Another must-see near Harbour Island is Glass Window. First take a water taxi (5 dollars) from Harbour Island to the other side, then arrange a private taxi to Glass Window (50 dollars). Glass Window is actually a one-lane bridge linking two islands. Water on the Atlantic side is rough while water on the Caribbean side is calm.
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| Glass Window |
May 27, 2016
Key West
Florida Keys are a major tourist attraction of the United States, though it’s not cheap. Almost all tourists make it to the end – Key West. It’s about 4 hours drive from Miami. Keys Shuttle offers shuttle services from Miami and Fort Lauderdale airports several times a day for 50-55 dollars per person one way. You need to call them in advance to book a seat or book online from their website.
Key West is a relaxing town full of tourists. A must-see is Hemingway House. It seems many people go there to see the six-toed cats rather than the museum itself. Key West Lighthouse is just opposite Hemingway House. At the end of Whitehead St. is the famous buoy stating “Southernmost Point, Continental USA”. There is lineup for taking the photo there – something that I thought only happens in China!
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| A six-toed cat at Hemingway House |
Summary
Jamaica and the Bahamas are worth visiting for independent travelers, though the high cost (especially in the Bahamas) makes it difficult for longer stays. English speaking locals are generally friendly, especially in smaller towns. Key West is a trendy destination in the United States, though the high cost and long drive (or shuttle) from Miami may make some people think whether it’s worth it.
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