Bang Saphan - Ranong

Since I've been to most “famous” beaches in Thailand, I started to explore some less-known beaches for this Thai New Year holiday. It turned out to be very rewarding.

Apr. 14, 2013
Bangkok to Bang Saphan Yai

The first beach I explored is Suan Luang Beach in Bang Saphan Yai. From Bangkok, train No. 171 departed around 13:50 - 50 minutes behind schedule. It arrived in Bang Saphan Yai around 20:30. After getting out of the train station, I couldn't find any motorcycle taxis to get to Suan Luang (6 km away). I called the resort I booked a day earlier, Patty Hut, and they came to the train station to pick me up for 200 baht.

Patty Hut is not on the beach (about 5 minute walk), but it's a nice little resort with a lovely garden. I stayed at their most expensive bungalow, the one with air-conditioner and hot shower, for 700 baht/night.

Garden at Patty Hut Bungalows

Apr. 15, 2013
Bang Saphan Yai (Suan Luang)

Suan Luang Beach is a quiet little beach with about 10 resorts and a couple of restaurants on the shore. The ever-popular Why Not Restaurant & Bar is just in the middle of the stretch and cannot be missed. Very fast Internet is available in the shop next door (run by the same family). There are quite a number of foreign tourists here - many of them are seniors. English is spoken at most resorts and restaurants. It's a good place for relaxation and watching people. This night I stayed at the budget Lola Bungalows for 300 baht (fan, no hot shower).

Suan Luang Beach， Bang Saphan Yai

Apr. 16, 2013
Bang Saphan Yai to Ranong

There is a daily bus from Bang Saphan Yai (market area) to Chumphon that passes Suan Luang around 8:30 a.m. Every resort can book the ticket for you in advance and the bus will come to the resort to pick you up. It costs 150 baht and takes about 2 hours to arrive in Chumphon. Bus driver can drop you wherever you want. I asked to be dropped at the mini-bus terminal for Ranong.

The Chumphon-Ranong mini-bus runs about every hour and costs 120 baht. It can leave early when full. This journey travels from Thailand's east coast (Gulf of Thailand) to the west coast (Andaman Sea) and is quite scenic. It takes about 2 hours as mini-van drivers usually drive very fast.

From the main road next to the Ranong's bus station, Songtaew #2 or #6 takes you to Day Market on Thanon Ruangrat where most hotels and restaurants are located for 15 baht/person in just a few minutes. I stayed at the Thai Chinese run Asia Hotel for 330 baht/night (fan, no hot shower).

Apr. 17, 2013
Ko Chang

Though sharing the same name with the more famous island east of Bangkok, this Ko Chang off Ranong is little visited. The morning slow boat for Ko Chang departs Renong at 9:30 a.m. Pon's Place now charges 60 baht to take you to the pier from their restaurant. It's still a good value considering songtaew #6 only passes the intersection of the small road leading to the pier and the intersection can be quite difficult to spot for someone not familiar with the area.

The boat actually heads for Ko Phayam, the more famous Island south of Ko Chang, and drops a few passengers at Ko Chang. Since it's already April, only the pier on the east coast can be used. Motorcycles take tourists to the beaches on the west coast for 100 baht/person.

Being on Ko Chang itself is quite challenging as it feels so remote with few tourists. There are about five resorts open on the west coast, almost all run by the Burmese. Ko Chang Resort is probably the best value. I stayed at a small hut on the rocks with full views of the ocean for only 300 baht/night (no fan, no hot shower). Food at the attached Tae's Seafood Restaurant is not that delicious but the view from the restaurant is dramatic. Electricity here is from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. There is no wifi but Internet is available by using the laptop of the resort for 2 baht/minute. There is really not much you can do on Ko Chang, except for eating, sleeping, reading, and looking at the sea.

Ko Chang Resort Bungalow

Apr. 18, 2013

Ko Chang to Bangkok

There is only one daily boat from Ko Chang to Ranong at 8:00 a.m. (actually leaving at 8:30 a.m.). Motorcycles take you to the pier from the resort for 100 baht. This time it's a long-tail boat and it only takes one hour to arrive in Ranong. The guy at Pon's Place is already at the pier. Their vehicle can take tourists to the bus station for 70 baht/person, just enough time to catch the 10:30 a.m. 2nd class bus for Bangkok (360 baht, 11 hours).

"Sea View" from Ko Chang Resort Bungalow

Overview

Having been to so many beaches in Thailand, I found that being on a smaller beach without many people feels very good. It gives me the peace of mind I need, as well as fresh air and the breeze, even if the beaches themselves are not super beautiful. I will definitely discover more beaches like Bang Saphan Yai and Ko Chang (Ranong) in the future.