Dec 6, 2012
Lao Pako
The overnight bus from Bangkok arrived in Nong Khai around 6:30 a.m., after a nine hour journey with frequent stops (620 baht). A Tuk-tuk to the Friendship Bridge charged me 60 baht. Immigration at both the Thai side and the Lao side were smooth. On the Lao side there were multiple charges - $42 visa fee for my Canadian passport, $1 overtime (it was before 8 a.m.) and 9,000 kips for the entry fee (same amount to exit as well). After all the fees paid and passport stamped, it was just a matter of how to get into the city. Despite the fact that most travelers use either a Tuk-tuk or a taxi, I found the No. 14 public bus very convenient and affordable (only 6,000 kips). It's very clean and air-conditioned and only takes 45 minutes to get to Talat Sao.
A short ride in Vientiane (such as from Talat Sao to the Thai Consulate Visa Section) by Tuk-tuk should be around 10,000 to 15,000 kips. The process of applying for a double entry Thai tourist visa is straightforward – just write “2” at “Number of Entries Requested” on the application form, attach two small photos and get photocopies of your passport, Lao visa and Lao entry stamp (there is copying and photo cutting service upstairs) and 2,000 baht ready. The only thing is expecting long wait. I arrived around 9:30 a.m. and finished around 12:30 p.m. (pickup is next day between 1 and 3 p.m.)
After submitting my application, I headed back to Talat Sao and hoped to get a public bus to Somsamai (from there there was supposed to be a boat to Lao Pako). I was told that the next bus to Paksap that passes Somsamai would be about 4 p.m. - that was too late for me and I got a motorcycle taxi to take me to Southern Bus Station (20,000 kips), hoping to get a bus there. Unfortunately there was no bus from there to Paksap. I called Lao Pako Resort that I was going there, they told me that they were not sure about the boat service from Somsamai. The resort has a shuttle bus that picks up guests from Vientiane daily at 12:00 noon (85,000 kips) and the vehicle already left by the time I called. They suggested I take a taxi. I asked the Tuk-tuk drivers around Southern Bus Station and they asked for 1,500 baht – way too much. I ended up using a motorcycle taxi to Lao Pako for 100,000 kips (400 baht).
Lao Pako is a resort deep in the village right on Nam Ngum Rriver. It's beautiful and very peaceful. I would say it's like a fairyland. Actually I was the only guest that day. They put me in a double bed bungalow for 160,000 kips. There is a hiking trail in the jungles nearby that you can finish in about 20 minutes. I also tried the Lao-style sauna (with local herbs) for 30,000 kips – quite interesting. I had Sin Lot (Sun Dried Salted Beef Thinly Sliced and Fried) and sticky rice for dinner, a little bit expensive (total 44,000 kips) but still acceptable. Overall it was a very relaxing afternoon and evening at Lao Pako.
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| Lao Pako |
Dec 7, 2012
Lao Pako – Vientiane – Ang Nam Ngum Resrvoir
Public transportation to and from Lao Pako is not very reliable, according to the new owner of Lao Pako, Public pickup is available from a nearby village (the resort can take you there by motorcycle) in the early morning (around 7 a.m.) and around 12:30 p.m. These times were not good for me and I decided to use the resort's shuttle service to Vientiane (leaving at 9 a.m.). If there is only one person, sometimes they cannot do it. However they had to go to Vientiane to pick up some people that day so I was able to use the shuttle.
Arriving in Vientiane around 11 a.m., still too early to pick up my passport. I had a Lao body massage near the Thai Consulate for 50,000 kips (almost the same as Thai body massage, even the price is similar) and Fried Rice with Chicken for 12,000 kips at the restaurant opposite the consulate.
Picking up my passport was easier – I spent about one hour waiting and got my passport around 2 p.m.
Rushed to Talat Sao and boarded a government-run green bus for Thalat (air-conditioned) for 12,000 kips (2.5 hours) leaving at 2:30 p.m. At Thalat, I had to hire a Tuk-Tuk to take me to Na Khuen (also known as Na Nam) for 50,000 kips (if there are four people, it's 15,000 kips per person).
Initially I hoped to stay at the guesthouse on one of the islands, as suggested in a guidebook. The locals told me there was no place to stay on the islands and I had to stay at one of the two resorts in Na Khuen. The further one is cheaper but I still had to pay $25 without breakfast (USD, THB and kips are all accepted in most parts of Laos). The room is actually very clean with satellite TV and hot shower. I ordered Sweet and Sour Fish (right from the Dam) and steamed rice for dinner for 40,000 kips and it was actually more delicious than the one at Lao Pako. The bungalow has an open view of the dam but it's not the same kind of feeling as in Lao Pako.
Dec 8, 2012
Ang Nam Ngum Resrvoir & Buddha Park
While having my breakfast at a local restaurant, I chatted with some boatmen for the possibilities of a boat tour of the dam. It turned out that the prices mentioned at the guidebooks were actually not very practical. I ended up paying 1,200 baht for a 1.5 hour trip to Phou Viang, Pha Tao and DanSaVanh Nam Nyum Resort (the casino).
Despite the sky-high price, the boat tour was still OK and I terminated at the best hotel in the dam area – DanSaVanh Nam Nyum Resort. Since I don't gamble, the small casino is of no interest to me. But the buffet lunch inside (45,000 kips plus 12% tax) was perfect to feed my stomach, before the free shuttle bus to Vientiane.
The shuttle bus uses the more scenic highway 10 and only takes 1.5 hours to get to Talat Sao. Before exiting Laos, I checked out Buddha Park not too far from the boarder (there is a private minivan service between the Friendship Bridge and Xieng Khouan – the Lao name for Buddha Park).
Buddha park (5,000 kips, no additional camera fee) is a small park containing sculptures of gods from both Buddhism and Hinduism. Nothing too special but some good walk and photo taking.
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| Phou Viang, Ang Nam Ngum Reservoir |
Overview
If you are tired of central Vientiane, staying overnight at Lao Pako or on the shore of Ang Nam Ngum Reservoir is a good option. Lao Pako is especially recommended – it's well organized and staff is friendly. It's a very good place for meditation. They are changing owners and undergoing renovations at the moment. Hopefully the new owner of this lovely and affordable fairyland will make it an even nicer place.
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