July 22, 2011
Dalian
Because of the ultra difficulty to get a train ticket from Beijing to Dalian during high season, I had to join a tour from Beijing which includes a one-way train ticket (560 yuan for the tour without the train ticket back). The train arrived at Dalian just a little bit after 8 am and the tour guide was waiting outside the train station. The first day of the tour was mainly Jinshatan area, including Garden of Stone, followed by a boat trip to see the Mud Crack (120 yuan extra for the boat). After a simple lunch (not included in the price of the tour), the tour took everybody to a mini golf course and a shooting range when I realized that it’s not the Coast's Geopark I was looking for. I then asked to quit the tour for the day and went to Dalian National Coast’s Geopark myself (70 yuan). It’s basically a one hour walking along the coast and you can see different landscapes on the way. Dalian National Coast’s Geopark is indeed the most beautiful place in Dalian and I’m glad I didn’t miss it.
To get back to town, I had to take the rapid rail from Jinshitan (8 yuan). Dinner was at a restaurant near a snack street. I had included the local specialty food Menzi in my orders.
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| Dalian National Coast's Geopark |
July 23, 2011
Dalian to Liaoyang
The second day of the tour was to visit Lvshun in the morning and an ocean park back in Dalian in the afternoon. I joined the Lvshun part of the tour. Apart from the military port, there is not much to see in Lvshun. I terminated the tour early in the afternoon in order to catch a train to Liaoyang. I asked the taxi driver to drop me at a streetcar station and tried myself the hundred year old Dalian streetcar – some very interesting experience.
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| Dalian Streetcar |
July 24, 2011
Benxi Water Cave
The bus to Benxi departs just besides Liaoyang Train Station (20 yuan). While in Benxi, buses for Xiaoshi (小市, 10 yuan) pass the water cave. Benxi Water Cave (150 yuan) is probably the longest cave in the world visitors can take a boat to explore. It was an interesting journey although still a little bit pricey.
From Benxi to Shenyang, there are two choices – express buses (22 yuan) and trains (8 yuan). I decided to take the train which turned out to be very uncomfortable (no seats).
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| Benxi Water Cave |
July 25, 2011
Shenyang to Baihe
The whole day was spent on the Shenyang – Baihe train (15 hours, 103 yuan lower berth sleeper).
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| The Shenyang - Baihe train stopped at Wangou（湾沟） Railway Station |
July 26, 2011
Changbai Mountains
A car hire to Changbai Mountains entrance from Erdaobaihe (Baihe) town costs 100 yuan return. The total official ticket cost for Changbai Mountains is 265 yuan including transportation to the Sky Pond. I was lucky enough to see a very clear Sky Pond thanks to good weather therefore didn’t complain about the hefty costs. There are some other nice walks in Changbai Mountains , including those to Changbai Waterfall and the Dell Forest.
In the afternoon, very heavy rain poured down. However, I had enough time to catch to 5 pm bus to Dunhua (31 yuan).
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| Sky Pond |
July 27, 2011
Songhua Lake
Buses to Jilin departs in front of Dunhua Train Station and the trip takes less than three hours. While in Jilin, Songhua Lake bound city bus 33 passes Wenzhou Mansion near the train station. Songhua Lake is a big reservoir and a popular relaxing spot for people in the region. Boats are available to some of the islands in the lake. I was a little bit late when I arrived at Songhua Lake in the afternoon and was only able to take a boat to Golden Turtle Island (50 yuan).
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| Songhua Lake |
July 28, 2011
Jilin to Harbin
Despite a recent accident, I still decided to take the Jilin-Harbin bullet train that costs 111 yuan and takes about two hours and a half. Resting at the hotel was the major thing I did in the afternoon, after a week of non-stop traveling.
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| Harbin Railway Station |
July 29, 2011
Zhalong Nature Reserve
I took train K7015 from Harbin to Qiqihar that departs at 8:45 am and takes about four hours (25 yuan). While in Qiqihar, city bus 306 goes to Zhalong town and passes the train station. An extra 10 yuan will take you to the nature reserve. Zhalong Nature Reserve (50 yuan) is very famous for its red-crowned cranes. I was lucky enough to catch the last “flying” of the day at 3:30 pm.
Back to Qiqihar, it was not difficult to buy a ticket for the last train to Harbin (train 4104, departing at 7:36 pm, 22 yuan with seat).
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| Red-crowned Cranes at Zhalong Nature Reserve |
July 30, 2011
Harbin
On this day, I had a city tour of Harbin and visited St Sophia Orthodox Church and Central Street. I also took a boat to Sun Island. Nothing special but a pleasant afternoon.
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| Central Street, Harbin |
July 31, 2011
Jingbo Lake
From Harbin to Mudanjiang, I took the 8:10 am train K7001 which is cheaper (30 yuan) and faster (taking less than five hours) than other morning trains. At the northern entrance to Mudanjiang Train Station, frequent buses depart for Dongjingcheng for 14 yuan. At Dongjingcheng, everybody can direct you to a bus to Jingbo Lake (10 yuan). Accommodations near the entrance to Jingbo Lake are expensive - that is not surprising. The entrance fee to Jingbo Lake is 80 yuan that doesn’t include any transportation inside the park (i.e. 12 yuan from the Diaoshuilou Waterfall to the lake one-way). A two hour boat trip in the lake costs 80 yuan and seems to be a must to any visitor to the park.
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| Jingbo Lake |
August 1, 2011
Jingbo National Crater Forest Park
There are minibuses between Jingbo Lake and Jingbo National Crater Forest Park (40 yuan return). The entrance fee for Jingbo National Crater Forest Park is 55 yuan, plus transportation inside the park. It’s a nice & easy two hour walk in the “underground forest” in the 3rd and 4th craters.
Getting back to Mudanjing is easy. Same 10 yuan to Dongjingcheng and another 14 yuan to Mudanjiang. Since there were no trains departing soon by the time I arrived at Mudanjiang, I took a bus back to Harbin that departs frequently at the north entrance to the train station (67 yuan, less than 5 hours).
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| Jingbo National Crater Forest Park |
August 2, 2011
Wudalianchi
I joined a two day tour from Harbin to visit Wudalianchi. It was a tiring 7 hour trip (no expressways) but OK to visit the main tourist areas, including a climb to Mt Laohei where you can see the crater and 5 lakes.
Wudalianchi is famous for its cold springs and many Russians come here just for the cold springs. Not surprisingly, after dinner, most people in the group went to cold springs (80 yuan). I was too tired to do so.
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| Stone Sea, Wudalianchi |
August 3, 2011
Wudalianchi to Harbin
In the morning, the tour took us to two minor sites in the region - Longmen Stone Village and Medicine Spring Lake where people can get some spring water (but have to drink quickly because of oxidation). After an early lunch, it was another 7 hour bus journey back to Harbin. A night train back to Beijing marked the end to my Northeast China journey.
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| Medicine Spring Waterfall, Wudalianchi |
Overview
Northeast China is not a typical destination to most travelers to China, except for the Sky Pond of Changbai Mountains which is extremely beautiful (weather permits). Dalian National Coast’s Geopark and Benxi Water Cave are nice places to visit but not “must-sees”. There are more sites in Heilongjiang province but they are all average. There are supposedly some beautiful places to visit in Northeast China if you come in the winter, provided you can bear the cold temperature. In the summer, the temperature in Northeast China is a little bit lower than most parts of China, but not to a great extent.
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