Jan. 1, 2010
Khao Sok National Park
The overnight train from Bangkok arrived at Surat Thani Station in the early morning. I couldn’t find any direct minibus to Ratchabrapa Dam (or Cheow Lan Lake, part of Khao Sok National Park). Instead I was put by an agent into a passing-by minibus to Ban Ta Khun on the main road (1 hour, 180 baht) where I took a motorcycle for 200 baht for the 12km journey to the dam.
At the lake there were many tourists there already, mostly Thais. My original plan was to take a boat to Ton Toey Raft House and walk 13km (about 4 hours) to the Visitor Center on the other end of the park. However, I was told that a guide was needed for the walking and no guides were available on the day due to the number of visitors in the holiday season. A little bit disappointed, I hired a small boat for a round-the-lake tour for 1,500 baht (about 2 hours). The scenery is nice, if not spectacular. Back to the dam, I learned that there are hourly minibuses available (coming from Surat Thani) for 150 baht. While I was thinking if I should take the minibus and get off at Ban Ta Khun, a lady offered to take me there for 300 baht. I asked for 200 baht and she accepted.
At Ban Ta Khun on the main road, it was a long wait (almost 1 hour) to get a minibus to the main entrance to Khao Sok National Park (1 hour, 60 baht) where I took the free pickup from Bamboo House and selected a room with hot water for 350 baht (asking 500 baht).
There are a few activities in the park – canoeing, tubing (not available in January due to low water levels), hiking, etc. I selected a new program – hiking from west of the park entrance to see what is claimed the world’s largest flower – the rafflesia kerrii (1,000 baht with guide, around 3 hours round-trip). The flower is dramatic.
After dinner, I joined a night safari from Bamboo House for 1,200 baht (2 hours). The guide was the same person as in the afternoon – a kid of the owner. Unfortunately we didn’t see any mammals, only some insects. According to the kid, it’s too noisy and bright near the park these days and the animals don’t dare to come.
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| A rafflesia kerrii in Khao Sok National Park |
Jan. 2, 2010
Khao Sok to Phuket
The free pickup truck at Bamboo House took me to the main road where I caught a bus from Surat Thani on the way to Phuket shortly after 11:00 a.m. I got off at Khao Lak (100 baht, 2 hours) and checked in Jai Bungalows in Nang Thong (400 baht, no hot water). When I wanted to book a snorkeling tour to Similan Islands the next day, I was told that it was all full, probably because Jan. 3 is the last day of the New Year break in Thailand. A little bit disappointed, I booked the Jan. 4 tour to Similan Islands (1,750 baht) and asked Jai Bungalows that I would use the room for the next day instead and decided to go to Phuket right away. Luckily a Phuket bound bus just approached and I jumped onto it and it took another 2.5 hours to reach Phuket Town (100 baht).
It’s about 20 minute walk from the bus station to Thanon Ranong where songthaews to the beaches originate. To Patong Beach it’s actually a bus (25 baht, 20 minutes).
There are plenty of hotels and resorts in Patong but most of them are unreasonably expensive. After checking a number of places, I accidentally found a place called Baan Wanida on a small soi off Thanon Rat-U-Thit Song Roi Pee near Phuket Erawan Guesthouse. The room has hot water but no window. The rate is only 600 baht/night.
Dinner was at Chez Bernard Restaurant No. 6 (steamed fish 250 baht) on the beach near Thanon Sawatdirak. A light walk after dinner around Thanon Bangla proved to be a relaxing one – not too much different from Walking Street in Pattaya.
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| Thanon Bangla in Patong is similar to Walking Street in Phattaya |
Jan. 3, 2010
Phuket
After buffet breakfast (150 baht) at a restaurant near my guesthouse, I arranged a taxi to Karon Beach for 250 baht (Tuk-Tuk asked for 300 baht). There were many people on the beach already and there were no visible seats available on the front line. I decided to just sit on the sand and read my book. By around 1 p.m. the sun started to get hot and I caught a songthaew back to Phuket Town (30 baht, 30 minutes, continuing to bus station 40 baht).
The old city of Phuket Town is quite interesting with many Sino-Portuguese shophouses around. The Phuket Thaihua Museum is also worth a visit (free admission at the moment). Unfortunately most shops and restaurants are closed on Sundays.
Because of Sunday, the 4:20 p.m. bus to Khao Lak (on the way to Takua Pa) was canceled and I had to take the very crowned 5:00 p.m. bus (last one 5:50 p.m.) for 90 baht 2.5 hours later. Upon arriving in Khao Lak, I went to Jai Bungalows but was told they didn’t keep the room for me because I arrived too late. They instead arranged me to stay at a bungalow at the opposite Khao Lak Super Mart without additional charge. It turned out that room has hot water – not bad at all.
Dinner at Khao Lak Seafood was pleasant. Two king prawns cost 300 baht. I also tried Massaman curry soup for 90 baht.
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| Old City, Phuket Town |
Jan. 4, 2010
Similan Islands
Almost all the tour agents in Khao Lak can book snorkeling trips to Similan Islands. They all come to a few operators doing the trip. I used Medsye - seems to be the biggest company for the tour. They use a very fast boat and it only takes 1 hour and 20 minutes to reach the islands from Thaplamu Pier. Many people felt stomach discomfort and requested medicine from the staff. We snorkeled for about 45 minutes around Island No. 5 then rested on the beach and had lunch on Island No. 4 (Koh Miang). In the afternoon we snorkeled again around Island No. 9 for 40 minutes then headed for the biggest island – No. 8 (Koh Similan). The beach there is nice. Even better is a 30 minute climb to the top of the rock where you can enjoy the dramatic views.
The tour finished exactly at 5:00 p.m. in Khao Lak, enough to take the night bus to Bangkok at 8:00 p.m. (2nd class, 700 baht, 12 hours)
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| Koh Miang |
Overview
Although not as famous as Phang Nga and Krabi, Khao Sok National Park and Similan Islands are nice side trips from Phuket. Both are laid-back but activities are expensive. The rafflesia kerrii at Khao Sok is definitely a highlight, although I didn’t see a single foreign tourist there. Similan Islands prove to be a good destination although the fast boat going there is not very comfortable and that can ruin the journey. Phuket itself is overrated and uncomfortably expensive therefore there is no need to stay there for too long. Although I traveled in January, I encountered rains everyday in late afternoon so prepare for that as well.
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